Afghanistan- The Lion of the Panjshir

AFGHANISTAN- The Lion of the Panjshir

Ahmed Shah Massoud. The Lion of the Panjshir. Leader of the Afghan resistance against the Soviets and Taliban.

August 2012

I titled my first post in the Afghan series of this blog, the unconquerable land. No other part of Afghanistan holds more true to this statement than the Panjshir valley.

This is a valley north of Kabul where the ravages of war that scare so much of the country are not as easily seen. It is a terrain so difficult that even the mighty Soviet Union could not penetrate it.  Everyone I met in Kabul insisted that I visit this place, they told me it is one of the most beautiful spots in Afghanistan and it is also the home of Ahmed Shah Massoud, the man the Afghans call “The Lion of the Panjshir”.

I had no idea how I would get up to this valley, so I asked around and I was told about a market in the north of the city where people from the valley often come to buy supplies and trade some of their locally grown produce. I made my way to the market, asked if any of the vans were heading up to the valley and one man said “hey, come along with me, no problem” . I later discovered that was the only English he knew. I thankfully had in my passport a VISA for Iran, a VISA written in Farsi, which Afghans, if they can read, can understand. So I would usually show this document to Afghans, that way they could know my name, where I am from, my age and so on. It is a good starting off point. So my many thanks to the Iran embassy in Pakistan. I showed it to the driver, she smiled and said ….. WILLLLLIAMMMM? Baillie….? Delllllllannney?? Yes yes? I responded correct, tashakor(thank you in Dari). We were then the best of pals for the next 3 hours that it took us to reach the Panjshir.

I went through the check point at the entry to the Panjshir valley and it was here that I realized just why it was so difficult for the Russians to get through and near impossible for the Taliban.

 This valley is steep and narrow, offering little room for Red army tanks or Taliban pickups. The people are mostly Tajiks, the same ethnic people as the earlier country I visited, Tajikistan, and the Tajiks in Afghanistan were not as heavily involved in the Taliban regime or believed in their ideology.

This valley is green, lush with fruit pastures and the people seem far more open and relaxed here. After all, there valley and homes were never ravaged by the Russians, and they never had to suffer under the repression of the Taliban. I saw remnants of Red army tanks littered across the valley floor, testament to the great tactical skills of Ahmed Shah Massoud and his ability to trap these Russian tank convoys. I made my way up the valley, and visited the tomb of this great warrior. The Afghans here were once again thrilled to see me and tour me around the facility, explaining the heroics of their great leader.

I later realized that since I had hitch hiked all the way up the valley to see this tomb I would at some point need to hitch hike back. I wandered down the main road, sticking my thumb out at a mini-van, and sure enough in good Afghan style it stops. I get in and they start driving me to the next village. Afghans god bless you guys.

Inside the van is a driver, who speaks only Tajik and Dari, but in the back is a trio of guys doing work for John Hopkins University in the USA. They are all Afghans, but they all speak fluent English. Naturally as it is later in the day I am invited to dine and even offered the opportunity to stay the night in the valley with them. I wanted to stay, but I had plans to meet up with a friend in Kabul to hopefully make our way up into Central Afghanistan, so I needed to get back. They understood entirely and in good Afghan fashion arranged me a ride back to Kabul. I tried to pay for the food, or the ride, and they laughed and explained to me that when you are a guest in Afghanistan you are to be treated as if you are their brother or their son. I accepted and was on my way back to Kabul.

The Panjshir valley has not been kind to invaders, but the people of this valley are kind to those that come to them in peace and in respect. I find it fascinating how these Panjshiri people could smite the mighty USSR and crush the Taliban, but would offer me a room in their home at the drop of a hat. It is just a fascinating complex in this country, a mind set so ancient and so deep that over the course of my entire life I will never fully understand.

I am safely back in Kabul, and my day trip the Panjshir has showed me once again the true hospitality of these warrior people.

Tomorrow, inshallah I shall set off for an adventure to central Afghanistan, the land of the Hazaras (descendants of Ghengis Khan) and the giant Buddha’s of Bamiyan.

Thank you to all those that hosted me in the Panjshir valley and made this incredible experience possible.

Sincerely,

William Delaney