AFGHANISTAN- Kabul Round Two- The Expat View.

Kabul Afghanistan

August 2012

The Calgary Crew in Kabul

In my earlier visit to Kabul I was introduced to the nuts and bolts of Afghan life. I drank chai, dined on rice Pulao, smoked sheesha and discussed at length with as many of the Afghans as I could. I took their local transport, little imported auto-rickshaws from India, the beat up shared taxis, donkey carts and walked as much on foot as possible around the streets and building blocks of Kabul.

The tomb of Babur, Babur Gardens, Kabul.

My experience in this city was so positive, and I was welcomed openly by all those I met as I showed in my early posting on Kabul. I however had a repeated comment given to me by Afghans, a rather sad comment, "You are one of the few white men to ever speak with us". The Afghans repeatedly told me that despite the massive international presence here by the United States and their allies, rarely do the Afghans get to meet foreigners. I asked myself, where do these foreigners reside? Where can I find them? What do they do in their free time?

Regardless, they say god works in mysterious ways. I finish a day exploring the last sites of Kabul that I missed on my earlier ventures to the city and I book my airline ticket to Herat, as the overland route was impossible, or so I was told by all Afghans I met. I come home to my hotel and I am in the elevator of my hotel, a new hotel this time, as Mustafas had shut down, as the ownership and work force had gone home for Eid. I see a man in the elevator, I greet him, "Asalam Aleykum", he responds in perfect English, "You are an American?". I say, no no, I am from Canada. He says, "ohhhhhhhhh I am off to an expat bar, run by a Canadian, you should join me". I am stunned for a minute, as drinking alcohol is strictly illegal in Afghanistan, not to mention the thought of a Canadian run bar there?????... hmmmmmm, well I thought about this for all of two seconds, changed my clothes and went with him.

On the road back from Baburs Garden to central Kabul

It was here that I would discover a window into the life of the expats of Afghanistan, a rather strange scene I must say, but interesting non the less. We enter into the compound, are searched by the guards and asked as to our occupation and who we know. The man I am with is an ethnic pashtun, but he had been educated in the UK, and thus worked often with expats. He spoke to them and they let us pass.

I then discover a compound courtyard full of expats drinking whiskey, wine and plenty of beer and a bar literally covered in Canadian paraphernalia, I felt like I had arrived at Hudson's Taphouse, except there was hardly any girls in sight, lol.

Traffic jams.

Canadian Expat Bar, Kabul.

I sat down and met a German expat, who was working for the German foreign affairs office in Kabul. He explained to me how he has to sneak out and dress like an Afghan just to meet Afghans, as the policy guarding the expats here are strict beyond anything, as the danger level is so high.

We get to chatting, and he explains to me the German governments goal to eventually build a German international school in Kabul. I thought this to be an impressive goal, and I have to say that the Germans outlook on what to do in Afghanistan I seemed to align myself with. The American military action, as I have mentioned is of course necessary, but without more long term measures for the country I do not see a lasting solution, or a victory over the Taliban or Islamic extremism. My new German friend fully agreed.

The night progressed and I met some more expats from the USA, Canada, France and the UK. All of which were interesting people, but many of them puzzled as to why on earth I had come to Afghanistan and many were just baffled by the way I had conducted my journey here. I had a man lecture me about how he has been in Afghanistan for five years and so on about his experience here. I asked him if he is ever allowed to interact with every day Afghans... Ie, go the market, a tea house or for dinner with them? He responded to me, NO NO NEVER, that is far to dangerous. I thought to myself, I understand that, but your job is to help build this country, how can you do that hiding behind these 20 feet high walls?

Myself, Sasha and Ryan living the dream.

I realize it is not that simple, but there has got to be ways to have dialogue with the Afghans? Because simply just training an army and a government does not guarantee a smooth transition of power come 2014. And with the type of expat operation I was exposed too, I do not believe that the average Afghan will buy into our ideas or their governments that easily.

Sunrise from the Expat complex in Kabul.

Sasha doing the climb up.

I came away from these conversations feeling more that we are occupying this land, rather than liberating or helping it. We are not "occupying" in the way the British or the Russians did, as our conduct and motives I believe are different. But the average person in Afghanistan does not seems to care to much for us, and it appears that they as I mentioned in my other posts are just going about their same routine, waiting for the trucks and flags of Europe and American to leave through their mountainous borders.

Although I have to say, I did have a very good time at this party. These very intense conversations always inspire me to drink many a beer. And in the process I managed to meet two young folks from Calgary, both of which actually live VERY CLOSE to my residence there. I was shocked, all this way across the planet and I run into a girl who lives in country hills blvd? And a guy who lives down town on 11th ave right by hudsons? Is this real? What in the name of heaven is going on here?

Their names of Sasha and Ryan, both of whom worked for the United Nations airline, flying people and supplies around Afghanistan. We partied all night together, discussing our experiences in Afghanistan, and it was so cool to meet some people more my own age, as the expats are usually far older and more formal than those of us in our mid twenties.

Time to go to Herat.

Sasha and I watched the sunrise from the top of her complex over Kabul, as she insisted I do not walk home until after sunrise, for fear of my safety. I was very thankful for this generous display of hospitality, that and she made me a care package for my trip to Herat, she truly is the flight attendant of the century.

A fantastic quote from a fantastic leader.

With promises of beers of plenty upon our return home, I parted ways with my new found expat friends and went home to my hotel to rest before my flight across to Herat and my final stop on this wild Afghan adventure.

Next up in the Afghan series is Herat and the journey to Iran.

Thank you to all the folks that showed me a very unique and different Kabul and informed me so much as to their work and lives in Afghanistan. And to Ryan and Sasha, we shall rock the scene in Calgary come the fall.

Goodbye Kabul!

Cheers to you all,

William Delaney