Sunday 16 June 2013

The "Other" Iran- Where old friends reconnect, TEHRAN!

"It all begins when you plant an idea in some ones head, that idea can grow and grow until it becomes real"- Inception.

Having dinner with my good friend Ali Bank and his cousins.

One of my favourite movies applies very clearly to my mission to get to Iran. Five years ago while travelling the world with Ali Banki, I got the IDEA to go to Iran, the INCEPTION was planted and the game was on. I have travelled Iran for a few weeks now, but the goal of reaching Tehran was always in the back of my mind. Getting to meet Ali's family, learn about the modern Iran from his perspective, and experience a side of Iran few tourists get to see.
Learning to dress like one of the many tribes of Persia

Ali never disappoints, and much like his countrymen, his hospitality is second to none! We dined at some of Tehrans finest restaurants and much like five years ago Ali got me to break out of my shell and try some different things, including Sheep brain for breakfast, and I have to say, I like it much more than the traditional bangers and mash of my ancestors in Ireland.

We toured around Tehran, Ali took me up in the North suburbs to have dinner with is family, we explored the inner markets where I was able to buy some lovely gifts for my loved ones. We went up the Tehran tower, 6th tallest building in the world, offering an incredible vista of what appeared to be all of Tehran from up there.

Tehran proved to be so very modern, the city was hosting the summit of the "non-aligned", ironic as the film Argo by Ben Affleck about the Iranian revolution was about to be published. I have to say that Tehran for having nearly 17 million souls live up to the Persian standards of cleanliness, efficiency and beautiful. Gardens and trees a plenty, beautiful homes, clean roads, well paved, Christian churches, muslim mosques, train stations, multiple airports and so much more.
Me and Ali up top at the Tehran Tower.


Who ever would have thought? As the only images I grew up with are of an Iran that hates the west, expels the US and condemns Israel to death, yet here in Tehran today I feel not a threat, no angst, just a relaxing cool air that pervades the high mountain top city.

I have always taught my students to never judge a book by its cover, and often what we initially see of believe can be turned on its head so very quickly by just the slightest turn. One such moment happened in central Tehran, as I see a sign with bombs saying death to America, and yet behind it stands proudly an Armenian cathedral, in the centre of Tehran, one of its most iconic landmarks, the church of St. Sarkis. We are so often told that muslims are taught to hate Christians, and that they associate Christians with the west, yet here in Iran for hundreds of years Christians have lived side by side with Muslims, and it was here in Iran that the Armenian's fled from persecution and genocide at the hands of the Turks during World War I.
The beautiful Saint Sarkis Cathedral under the close watch of the supreme Ayatollah.
So this is the picture the west wants to paint of Iran, it could not be more un-true.

Iran is full of suprises and Tehran is no different.

It was an honour and privilege to be re-united with my good friend Ali after so long, the man that was responsible for the inception that grew into the trip "Between the Lines of Asia".

Wishing well to all those at home and abroad.

God Bless.

William Delaney

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