AFGHANISTAN- The Un-Conquerable Land

Afghanistan- The Un-Conquerable Land

August 2012

WELCOME to Kabul Afghanistan, the capital of quite possibly the most misunderstood land on earth. I am writing in review of my experience in this city, as tomorrow morning I shall leave here and go beyond to the north of the country.

I arrived in Kabul a couple days, flying in from Tajikistan. As we flew in I saw barren mountains, brown with the colour of sand, little to no civilization in site. I wondered, how can anyone live in this place? But as we flew into Kabul I began to see an expanding city stretching up the mountains and valleys than run from Kabul. I was excited and yet very nervous as that plane landed. We got off the plane, grabbed our bags and went to customs. The man said little to me, as my VISA is not technically tourist, it is just an “Entry” VISA, so I am not sure what he thought, I am just glad I did not have to explain my goals for  tourism.

I got out of customs and looked around…. Is there a bus into town? Where are the taxi’s? Is there an ATM? I only have 150 bucks in cash….. Where can I exchange for Afghani currency? Ohhhhhh Jeez, am I not prepared…….

Then out of no where a man says to me…”Hey Mr. American do you need some help??”. I explain what I need, and he helps me every step of the way, Afghans are so hospitable. He got me a taxi, negotiated my fare, told him where the International Bank was, and that I needed an ATM. Explained to the man where my hotel was. And before I knew it, I was on my way into Kabul.

As we drove through to the central part of the city, to my hotel, Mustafas, I noticed a WALLED city. Every building of any type of importance was surrounded by high walls. I have never seen a city so engulfed by security, but hey, after all there is a war here.

When I got all my details sorted out and got to Mustafas I was embraced by the locals staying there. For 20 bucks I night I got a room, a shower that worked sometimes and even a western toilet. It was truly paradise, lol. I also discovered that the young men occupying this hostel were all either university students, studying in Kabul or abroad, or were young professionals working for foreign firms. They encompassed all the major tribes of Afghanistan.

 There were Pashtuns, Tajiks, Uzbeks and Hazaras, along with one man who was a Turkmen, one of Afghanistans smaller tribes. They all spoke English and were from all different parts of the country and were similar ages to myself. I thought I had struck gold. We would dine each night after the breaking of the Ramazan fast, drink gallons of tea and smoke sheesha late into the night as I hoped to learn about Afghanistan and its extremely complicated history and current situation.

It took a couple days for them to trust me. They later explained a “foreign man” had come to the hostel, claiming to be Portuguese, but all the Afghans believed him to be an ISI agent(Pakistan secret service). They wanted to make sure I was not in the CIA before they opened up to much about their situations.

I managed to make the most of my first stop in Kabul. I asked many of the men at the hostel what places were safe to visit, where was there military activity and what could I do to minimize my risk. I discovered that Afghans are quite fair skinned in many cases, and with my dark brown hair and a bit of a beard, I could blend right in with the right clothes. So my new found friends took me shopping, got me some new pants, Afghan scarves and of course the all important Afghan VEST! I blended right in, and walked freely around town with my Afghan counter parts.

I learned so much touring Afghanistan with my new found friends. I was never able to pay for a taxi, when they found out I was from Canada and came as a TOURIST, the afghans were stunned and were thrilled I was interested in seeing them. I later learned that despite a massive international presence here, the westerners rarely interact with the average Afghans, whether it be taking cabs, drinking tea or eating with them. And being a culture built off of pride, hospitality, family and friendship, they were eager to meet other people and hear about what they thought about Afghanistan.

I was toured around Kabul. I climbed up on the mountains above the city, saw the gardens of Babur (the Afghan that conquered India and started the Mughal dynasty there), dined at various restaurants, visiting an old bird market, I saw children flying kites, playing cricket and people bustling in the local markets.

 I saw women in Burkas and in tight blue jeans, I saw men in modern suits and traditional shalwars. I saw Muslims and Sikhs, which surprised me, but hey they made war with the Afghans on several occasions and apparently get along quite well in the modern post Taliban era.

I loved the climate of Kabul, warm and dry during the day and cool and calm at night. It is said that Babur, the great Mughal king preffered his lovely Kabul over his newly conquered rich Hindustand(India). And he insisted he be burried back in Kabul, as opposed to his new kingdom.

I discovered, as to be expected that Afghans are very passionate about their faith. And I too am quite passionate about my Christianity. Coming to one of the most strictly Islamic lands may not seem a great way to improve or develop ones faith, but I became more devout being around these people. Christians are recognized as people of the book by muslims, as we follow the god of Abraham, as do Jewish people as well.

The Afghans embraced me and my faith and loved to discuss the doctrines of our faiths in healthy debate and were curious to learn, as I was curious to learn about how they interpret Islam. I came away very happy and more enlightened from my Afghan counterparts, especially from my meetings with an Afghan-Uzbek named Noor-Mohammed. Noor was about to leave to do his masters in India and was very well educated, and one of the most hospitable people I have ever met, so on my next visit to India, he will surely be looked up again.

I developed my itinerary here in Kabul, and made plans and transport arrangements for the North of the country.

Kabul will be my base and tomorrow I shall drive up through the Salang pass and visit Mazar-e-Sharif and Balkh to see some of the top highlights of Afghanistan’s history and modern situation.

Cheers to all,

William Delaney