The "Other" Iran- The Christians of Persia

The “Other Iran” The Christians of Persia

The Historical square in Esfahan.

Welcome to Esfahan, a city littered with the history of ancient Persia, from the mosques to the squares, to the food, the pottery, the literacy’s and the people. Despite the vast historical potential here in Esfahan, I discovered something very unique, a part of Iran that I did not know existed, at least not openly. This was the Christians of Iran.

Esfahan is known for being the cultural centre of ancient Persia, its historical bridge, squares, universities, gardens and palaces were all pillars of Persian society, yet the ones that designed and built these magnificent structures were as I found out, Armenian Christians.



Brian and Patrick, cruising the streets of Esfhan.



The Shahs(Kings) of Persia were so impressed by the skills of Christians artisans from the parts of historic Armenia that they conquered that they felt they had to bring these people to build the heart of their empire. The Armenian area they conquered was called  “Jolfa”, a town that still is located in Northern Iran, and is home to one of the most impressive Christian cathedrals in the middle east I am told. The Shahs gave a section of the city to the Christians, this area of Esfahan is also called Jolfa, they gave them religious freedom and exempt them from certain laws that Muslims must obey, such as the consumption of alcohol.

Amazing blue mosque in Esfahan. What a great first day.

The relationship between the Persians and the Armenians thus grew, and flourished, where today despite being a strict Islamic Republic, the Christians of Iran are guaranteed seats in the Iranian parliament and are allowed to follow their faith openly, and are still exempt from certain state rules, again including the consumption of alcohol and they are permitted to hold mixed sex parties and play mixed sex sports. I am even told they have their own night club in Tehran, which I suppose I will have to look up later on in this trip.

Main Mosque of Esfahan, truly beautiful.

Regardless, Esfahan is a beautiful place, the weather was warm and the light summer breeze made walking around this magnificent city a true pleasure. I explored the ancient square, visited the old city mosque, saw the dozens of shops selling fine Persian pottery, designed with the intricacies of Islam and ancient Persia, I sipped countless cups of tea and discussed my love of Iran with many of the Persians I met, it was a great first day.

Inside the mosque complex.

Day two, I made it my mission to explore the Christian section of town. I headed for Jolfa, not far from my guest house. When I arrived I saw cathedrals a plenty, designed very similarly to the mosques throughout the country. And then it struck me, many of these mosques were designed and built by Christians and resemble Christian churches, AMAZING! I had noticed a vast difference between Persian mosques and others in the Arab or sub-continent worlds, but it made sense now. Truly remarkable!

I also discovered that this area of town is not only protected by the government in Tehran, but it is celebrated, as the Christians of Iran hold a special place in society. The same as the Jews in Shiraz, their roots run deep in this land, and contrary to our beliefs out in the west Christians, Muslims and Jews have been living side by side in this country for thousands of years, it’s  not new to them it’s just new to us, lol.

The Christian quarter of Esfahan.

Outside Vank cathedral(Which is the Armenian short form of Holy Saviour cathedral), the main church in Esfahan stands a proud statue of an Armenian inventor, Khachatur Kesratsi ,  who brought the printing press to the Middle East! An invention claimed by Persia, and as such they celebrate it, even though it was a Christian who invented it. I walked about the church complex, visited by Armenians, Persians and other tourists. People come from all over Iran, not matter what their faith to see this historic place. I was amazed! It was here that I learned more about the Armenian genocide of the early 20^th century, at the hands of the Ottoman Turks. The exhibit was moving and Iran shows support for their Armenian minority in displaying it.

It was an emotional day, to see all this history before me, celebrated by people I am told hate Christians. How can we have this misconception? When it is so open to see here in Iran? I puzzle about this, as the more I learn about Iran, the more I discover it is not as cookie cutter as our government portrays it, and why should it be? This country has 7000 years of history! We in Canada and the States a mere few hundred.

Inside the Vank Cathedral complex.

Of course, it is important to pay attention to the reality of the situation. I discussed at length the relationship between Christians and muslims in Iran with Persians and they explained that even though Christians are allowed, if a muslim converts to Christianity, they can be executed. So it is not all rosey cheeks, but the notion that Persians hate Christians is not true, of all the Persians talked to, they embraced the Christians in their country as brothers, not outsiders, and even I as I have said before have been celebrated for being a Christian by muslims.

Soon I will head north to the beating heart of Iran, Tehran. Here I shall go to visit a close friend, Ali Banki and I am so glad that I have seen so much of his country to discuss with him. Iran has many treasures, many of which I have yet discover. Those that take the time to come to Iran know that the rewards far outweigh the price of getting here. I encourage everyone to come to Iran to see for themselves what is not being told of this incredible country.

Inside Vank Cathedral. Amazing art, and who knew?

Cheers to all for this incredible and surprising portion of Iran.

William Delaney